New York, London, Milan and Paris. Hundreds of fashion shows, thousands of clothes and accessories, celebrity guests, journalists, photographers, make-up artists, hair stylists, assistants, technical teams and so much more! Wow, it really takes a village big city to make a fashion season reality and after almost one month of pure art and creativity all that's left is to try to keep the flame alive.
We had a lot of special moments, from emotional tributes to Paco Rabanne and Vivienne Westwood, to a designers' debut as for the highly anticipated Daniel Lee's first collection for Burberry, plus, stunning sets as in Dior and unexpected ones as in Stella McCartney's. See below all of it and a few others that stole my heart this season.
Saint Laurent
Calling it elegant is been redundant. Anthony Vaccarello has already proved he knows exactly what he's doing at YSL... and he's doing magnificently! As we saw in the past collections, the 80s vibes keep going strong, this time presented in the overly structured shoulders.
Vivienne Westwood
It was the first show without Vivienne Westwood, who passed away at age 81 in December 2022. Andreas Kronthaler, longtime partner in life and work, dedicated it to Vivienne in a emotional tribute. Not only the collection was inspired by the brand’s extensive archive, much of it was made from Dame Vivienne’s antique fabrics, plus, Cora Corré (the designer's granddaughter) closed the show as the bride.
Paco Rabanne
Creative director Julien Dossena paid tribute to founder Paco Rabanne with an ode to the couturier's legacy as the Fall-Winter 23 finale presented five of Monsier Rabanne's original dresses - included pieces from his first collection as well as the one worn by Françoise Hardy in 1968 and the one worn by Donyale Luna in the 1967 Richard Avedon shoot.
Dior
When the location speaks louder than the clothes... I was completely amazed by Dior's set this season and it was about time! The Fall 23 show had the most playfully and beautiful colorful fabric sculpture installation designed by portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos.
Gucci
Speaking of staunning sets... Gucci staged its show at its Milan headquarters and go-to show venue: the Gucci Hub. The set was created by French production company Bureau Betak, which clad the floors of the headquarters in an avocado green, 70s-esque carpet.
Within the carpeted floors, two circular conversation pits were installed and lined with brown leather booth seating. Tubular concrete volumes, omitting bright white light, protruded from an office-style ceiling directly above the sunken conversation pits. Elevator shafts were covered in a plush mustard fabric between the venue's concrete walls whereby models entered onto the catwalk as the show began.
Doesn't it remind us of one of Kubrick's film sets?
Ferragamo
One more point for the italians! Designed by French events company Villa Eugénie, the studio responsible for designing some of fashions most notable catwalks and events, Ferragamo's show took place at the Mario Bellini-designed MiCo – a convention centre just outside Milan.
In plan, the set took shape as an infinity loop that saw monolithic wooden walls, stained in a deep marine blue, curving around the perimeter of the show space. A plush off-white carpet blanketed the floors and rows of cube-shaped stools were organised in curving lines within the blue boundary walls. Speaking of sci-fi dreams...
Stella McCartney
From Centre Georges-Pompidou to the Manège de l'École Militaire, Stella McCartney knows how to impress with her set choices. The designer staged a horse show at France's oldest riding school with a performance of 7 wild horses led by horse whisperer Jean-François Pignon - right next to the catwalk!
“There’s so much leather and feather and fur on the runway, especially in winter, and I just wanted to show that you can do it in a different way. You don’t have to kill anything,” Stella McCartney said after the show.
Burberry
Daniel Lee's first Burbery collection brought bold colors across tailoring, blanket coats, knits, oversized trench coats and a new logo reinstating the equestrian knight first seen in 1901. As a conservative as I am, what really got me interested here? Doesn't it looks like a walk in a winter's foggy afternoon in London?
Versace
When you thought it was over, fashion world flew from Paris to LA to watch one last spectacle...
It was Versace's time to present the next collection featuring big model names like Kendall, Naomi and Gigi Haddid on the catwalk, while the front row was filled with star-studded guests, such as Anne Hathaway, Miley Cyrus, Pamela Anderson and more...
All the Hollywood stars together, only one day before the Oscars 2023
CUCCULELLI SHAHEEN
Last, but not least - of course the highlight of the NYFW is myself on it! My first year attending a show in the official fashion calendar will be remembered and tresuared forever. And yes, all eyes on Cucculelli Shaheen, once the brand is only starting... Read my complete review here.
Outfit details and experience > this way <
The complete review and trends report are coming soon... Stay tuned!
Also, can't wait for the next fashion season.
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Love,
Theriz
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